UNIVERSITY - MILLINERY
The hats match the costume created for GENTLEMEN PREFER BLONDES, each unique from the last. All are made as part of the same collection, and hold different methods of embellishment.
The hat is the widest of the collection, shape reflecting on the wide brim hats of the 1900's, but also details seen in hats of the 1950's. Hand made ribbon roses adorn one of the hats, each made with two shades of satin ribbon. The roses are lightly topped with two shades of crystals, which add subtle shards of light when in the light. The pale pink bands extend under the crown, and are also decorated with crystals, subtle on the under, bold on top.
The hat is heavily inspired by the Ascot Races, and is formed with a small skull cap like structure, hidden within the inner of the hat, two alligator clips secure the hat to the head, and are fully hidden by hair.
The main extension is in the form of a large disc of sinamay, the disc is set with several feathers, rooster and goose, and come off on an angle, the crystals are clustered in the centre, and on the edge. The crystals on the inner are slowly spaced out, keeping focus to the top of the hat.
The crystals are both clear, and pink, and blend sparingly in the perimeter of the hat, adding to the concept of the costume.
Made from sinamay, and blocked with a round flat crown. The edge has been bound in hand formed sinamay binding. The main crown and top of the binding is lined in pink crystals, the centre of the crown with less.
The hat is topped with a Fuchsia pink diamond veil, which is hand pleated to extend past the brim, and the crown.
A dark burgundy ribbon contrasts, and is lightly topped with a triple ear bow, and a line of crystals.
Firmly set in line with the fascinator style, the hat is mounted to a double band metal hairband. The main hat is formed on an angle, extending off of the head.
The main decoration sees folded and partially pleated discs of sinamay, and within these sits three quilled feathers in fuchsia pink.
A two-tone sinamay bow sits at the base, and within the centre is a hand cast resin gemstone. The gem a reference to the musical scoring associated with the characters costume. The inner is secured with a pink felt strip, and this secures the band firmly to the main hat.
A classic Pillbox in shape, the hat has been blocked in a treble layer of buckram, making it very firm. Wirings finishes the edge, and keeps the rounded shape firm.
The materials are the same as the main costume, and sees a series of techniques. The dark pink is lightly pleated in three sections, and a layer of diamanté crystals line this. A layer of beading surrounds the diamanté. Pale pink ones edge the base and top of the crown, and see diamanté crystals on every inch.
A softly padded bow sits at the back side, and the centre is filled with beading and diamanté crystals. The hat is wider than average, making it fit firmly on the head, and only needing hair as support.
Inspired by the callot caps of the early 20th century, the hat is a rounded disc. Formed in two layers of bucram, it was left un-wired, allowing for some movement and manipulation. The individual hat is hand embellished, seeing a mix of clear and pink crystals.
Beading of matching colours lines the hat, and even on the underside by a half centimetre. A layer of pink felt is secured against satin lining, and a large silver metal hair comb keeps the hat secure.
The smallest of the pieces, it took a week of 12 hours blocks to complete from start to finish.
Inspired from the miniature Doll Hats of the 1930's, this piece reflects on the simplicity and also delicate nature of smaller scale hats.
Stiffened buckram covered in soft black velvet, and wrapped with a muted salmon ribbon, the colours designed to be ideal for day and afternoon wear. Hand formed red satin carnations sit on one side, with a delicate mesh veiling cascading over for height and a link to the delicate modesty seen across such hats of the 1930's. The hat is mounted to a black shock cord, allowing for a variety of placements across the head, no matter the hairstyle.
The tilt hat of the 1940's is often designed to sit on the top of the head, or at the back. The shapes are rounded, and often decorated across the crown and brim. Some can be simplistic with a small ribbon, or decorated with flowers.
Constructed in black sinamay, the hat created sees a black satin binding, and then topped with overhanging black diamond veiling which is placed on top of a ruffled white satin ribbon. The ribbon elevates the veiling, creating variation in shape and texture. Three satin flowers adorn the crown, the centres decorated with beading. The flowers represent daisies, a sign of spring.
The Pillbox has a wide and varying history and style, the shape is often box like, with high or low sides. the crown can be square, or with rounded shapes.
The Pillbox is made with hand formed columns and discs of buckram, with internal wiring and support in the crown. The smaller scale, designed for the more dainty head, the shape and colours although darker, reflect on the use of texture and colour. The heavy wool is a rich purple and black, contrasted with soft multi-tonal pink hand formed roses. A layer of diamond veil netting with small fuzzed discs dots over the top of the whole pillbox, creating a soft rounded shape with fine details when up close.
Instantly recognisable, the hats worn in the early 1900's always played with shape, texture, and importantly volume.
Inspired by the fashion plates and examples in Museums, the hat is a modified Gainsborough. The base is formed in buckram, and covered in soft black velvet. A satin lining and binding adds a contrast, and the crown and brim is heavily embellished with hand formed roses.
Each rose is hand mounted and wrapped with Milliners wire, and supported in the upturned brim by cleverly concealed wire supports and stitching. The feathers drape across the hat and add height, but also texture. The shape forms heavy clusters across one side, and sees a spray of the roses, giving the impression of a bouquet.
A staple part of history, the cloche of the 1920's is iconic for its shape, and fit to the crown of the wearer, often accompanied by the short boyish haircuts of the decade.
Inspired from a piece within the archives of the Met Museum NY, this hat reflects on how simple the cloche could be. A black felt hood, hand formed with a low riding back. The shape hugs into the nape, flaring with crimped edges. A felt bow sits on the left hand side, adding a small yet effective detail which stands proud from the main base of the cloche.